AQUAVITAE 2019. Viskio festivalis Mulheim/Ruhr

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Šis viskio (šiais metais buvo daugiau ir kitų gėrimų) festivalis yra dar vienas renginys, kurį kiekvienais metais aplankau. Jis nėra kažkuom labai ypatingas, bet čia sugrįžtu kiekvienais metais dėl puikios atmosferos, pažįstamų veidų, vietos, dažnai gero oro (šie metai nebuvo išimtis) ir beabejo dėl Viskio. O kaip kitaip?!

Secret Orkney 1995/2019, 24YO, 49.9%, Meadowside Blending, The Maltman, Sherry Butt, 534 buteliai, Statinės Nr. 101, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Taigi, Highland Park, ko čia slapstaisi? O iš esmės viskas suprantama, užkrauk distilerijos pavadinimą ir šis viskis kainuos du ar tris kartus daugiau. Negaliu skųstis, kad taip jie pasirinko. Nosis. Džiovinti vaisiai, lengvas laužo dūmas, sausas oloroso cheresas, sena statinė, saldus salyklas, vaškas, tamsus medus, kepti citrusai, raudonos uogos, anglis, lengvas žoliškumas ir žemiškumas. Kvapas tirštas, sunkus ir apveliantis nosį. Skonis. Švelniai gaivus su daug oloroso ir medžio. Beabejo, yra dūmo ir medžio anglies. Vidutinio kūno, bet sultingas. Kažkuom primena seną bačką. Statinė gana stipriai užstoja skonius. Dar paminėčiau tokius kaip džiovintos slyvos, serbentai, vyšnios, kepti zefyrai. Šlapias rūsys. Tamsus medus. Mano trys centai. Nei daugiau, nei mažiau kokybiškas ir solidus Highland Park. Jeigu nuoširdžiai, tai visad truputi viliuosi, kad visgi tai bus Scapa. Sorry, bet ne šiandien. 88 taškai.

Glenlossie 1997/2017, 20YO, 54.2%, Alambic Classique, Special Vintage Selection, Refill Sherry Butt, 293 buteliai, Statinės Nr. 17803, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Keista, bet pradėjau festivalį nuo cherese brandintų viskių. Žodžiu iš antro galo. Glenlossie distilerija nėra labai žinoma ar turinti daug fanų. Ji tiesiog yra ir tiek. Beje tame pačiame komplekse yra įsikūrusi ir Mannochmore distilerija. Jie dar gi dalinasi tais pačiais brandinimo sandėliais. Nosis. Ei, įdomu. Toks sakyčiau sofistikuojantis chereso kvapas. Ačiū refill statinei. Elegantiškas, švelnus, bet įdomiai kompleksiškas. Momentais randu durpės užuomazgas? Iš kur? Geras balansas tarp chereso ir distiliato, salyklo ir šviežių vaisių. Kas dar? Raudonos uogos, karamelė, užuomazga vanilės. Skonis. Sausokas, citrusinis, su mase aitrių prieskonių. Su charakteriu, ne „smooth” gerbėjams. Juoda arbata. Ir kas puiku, kad poskonyje turi subtilaus gaivumo, kuris padeda atsigauti burnai po prieskonių puolimo. Chereso mažiau, nei kvape. Vėlgi neblogas balansas, nors prieskoniai ima viršų. Mano trys centai. Per daug kažko nesitikėjau, bet buvau smagiai nustebintas ir įtrauktas. 87 taškai.

Littlemill 1992/2019, 27YO, 51.4%, Mancarella, Limited Edition, Bourbon Hogshead, 232 buteliai, Statinės Nr. 29, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Statinė iš tų metų, kai distilerija sustabdė produkciją ir 1994 metais buvo galutinai uždaryta. O jei kam ir kilo mintis ją atgaivinti, tai 2004 metais gaisras visiškai sunaikino. Beje, Mancarella pirma karta girdima kompanija, įkurta 2017 metais. Nosis. Be galo gaivus, daug ką tik skintų vaisių, kaip melionai, kiviai, papajos, obuoliai, greipfrutai. Beabejo, randu daug žoliškumo, arbatžolių ir prieskonių. Iš prieskonių išskirčiau baziliką, kmyną ir rozmariną. Momentais pagaunu rožių žiedlapių natą ir liepų arbatą. Skonis. Tropinių vaisių šerbetas, melionas, eukaliptas. Vėlgi daug žoliškumo ir aitrių prieskonių. Bet iš kur tas dūmelis…ar tai laužas? Musėt statinė buvo stipriai skrudinta? Mentolis, eukaliptas, baltas pipiras. Citrusų ir medžio kartumas persipynęs, vėlgi, su žoliškumu. Kūnas solidus ir smagiai apnešantis burną. Mano trys centai. Jau kai pataiko, tai pataiko stipriai. Asmeniškai ši distilerija man yra tokia „miss or hit”. Bet šis hitas kompleksiškas, gilus, gaivus, labai charakteringas, subalansuotas, subrendęs. 91 taškas

Linkwood 1990/2018, 27YO, 50.3%, Signatory Vintage, 30th Anniversary, Hogshead, 233 buteliai, Statinės Nr. 9735, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Linkwood distilerija per savo gyvavimo laikotarpį buvo du kartus uždaryta. Nuo 1941 iki 1945 metų ir nuo 1985 iki 1990 metų. Taigi, šis salyklinis viskis buvo distiliuotas, kai distilerija buvo pakartotinai atidaryta. Nosis. Vanilinis cukrus, guminukai, skrudintas medis, lakrica, žali obuoliai, ledinukai. Viskis pilnas gėliškumo, arbatžolių ir prieskonių. Pridėčiau prie viso šito dar juodąjį šokoladą, kokosą, ir virtų vaisių kompotą. Vaisiai, prieskoniai ir gėliškumas gana stipriai dominuoja. Beje, radau ir geltonų vaisių. Kvapas „belekaip” užkabino. Skonis. Citrusų žievelių kartumas, galbūt Limoncello, alijošius. Prieskoniai, kaip kardamonas, muskatas, baltas pipiras, žolelės. O vaisiai ir salyklo saldumas puikiai subalansuoja visą šį reikalą. Momentais buvo pasirodę, kad ąžuolo kartumas, vaisiai ir salyklas nesugeba iki galo subalansuoti. Bet gal tai tiesiog akimirkos silpnumas. Mano trys centai. Iš esmės labai įspūdingas ir galingas „dramas”. Panašu, kad visi 30-čio proga išleisti Signatory viskiai yra kažkas tokio. Jei bus proga, ragaukit. 89 taškai

Blair Athol 1988/2018, 30YO, 54.7%, Signatory Vintage, 30th Anniversary, Refill Sherry Butt, 519 butelių, Statinės Nr. 6847,
NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Turbūt nėra kažkam paslaptis, kad Blair Athol distilerija yra viena gražiausių Škotijoje. Beje, dar 1987 metais buvo atidarytas lankytojų centras. Įspūdinga. Nosis. Old school cheresinis viskis. Švarus, gilus, be galo kompleksiškas. Galėtum pusę dienos uostyti, kažką skaityti ir net negerti. Kvapas tiesiog įtraukiantis ir stulbinantis. Express kava, bazilikas, prieskoniai, juodas kartus šokoladas, skrudintas medis, karamelė, sūdyti ir kepti riešutai. Kitas pasaulis. Džiovintų vaisių galerija. Išskirčiau figas, razinas ir slyvas. Skonis. Kepti citrusai, karamelė, toffee, žoliskumas. Degintas medis ir kažkuris saldus vynas. Belenkokio stoto viskis. Medžio daug, bet balansuoja jį džiovinti vaisiai ir siera. Taip, siera. Labai puikus balansas. Labai tirštas. Burna tiesiog dainuoja. Poskonis begalinis. Sierai esu truputi alergiškas, bet čia tik tiek, kad suteikti kompleksiškumo ir daugiau nieko. Kas yra tiesiog puiku. Alergiją turintis nesutiktu su manimi (vienas toks buvo). Cha cha. Mano trys centai. Dar vienas įrodymas, kad Signatory nepasikuklino ir atkimšo puikias statines savo gimtadieniui. O kaip kitaip pasikviesi svečių? 92 taškai ir nemažiau.

Bruichladdich 1991/2017, 26YO, 51.8%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, 210 butelių, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Beje, įdomus faktas, kad distilerija tarp 1992 – 2000 metų pakeitė net penkis savininkus. Šis salyklinis viskis buvo distiliuotas dar tais laikais, kai distilerija priklausė Invergordon. Nosis. Lengva ir elegantiška. Mano supratimu laisvai galėtų būti vasarišku viskiu. Visi kvapai neįkyrus, lengvi, švelnūs. Ką išskirčiau? Rapsų aliejus, migdolai, lazdyno riešutai, pavasario gėlės, bananai ir jų žievė, melionai, saldūs prieskoniai, mėta. Nesenai ragauti bere ir organic oficialūs leidimai nelabai primena šį 26 metų salyklinį Bruichladdich. Skonis. Vėlgi vasariškas ir prieskoningas viskis. Daug medžio sausumo, salyklo saldumo, uogų gaivos, avokadų, agurkų ir vaisių kompoto. Momentais atsiranda bonbonkių saldumas. Poskonis ilgas, karštas, aitrus. Mano trys centai. Niekaip nepasakyčiau, kad jam 26 metai. Toks truputi dviprasmiškas viskiokas. Momentais atrodė, kad jau yra perlaikytas statinėje, o kitomis akimirkomis, kad vis dar noksta. Kita vertus labai neblogas reikalas. Vasariškas ir malonus. 85 taškai.

Bowmore 1994/2019, 25YO, 54.2%, Adelphi, Limited, Refill Sherry Butt, 498 buteliai, Statinės Nr. 554, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Ką čia galima pasakyti? Dažnai Adelphi ir Bowmore būna winner duetas. Bet atmeskim nusistatymus ar praeities patirtį. Tiesiog, skrendam. Nosis. Blemba, 25 metų Bowmore. Oh boy. Žiūrim, ką turim. Uostas, ar tai prieplauka, nesvarbu. Jūrų žolės, anglis ir šiek tiek degtukų, bet tik lengva užuomena. Durpės gerokai sėdusios ir jos pradėjusios keistis į kitus kvapus. Persikai, apelsinai ir citrinos. Šlapias smėlis ir minerališkumas. Alyvuogių aliejus ir šaltas laužas. Eukaliptas, pipirmetė ir Limoncello. Skonis. Rūkstantis durpės dūmas ir džiovinti vaisiai. Rūkytos datulės ir figos. Skonyje daugiau durpės, dūmo ir jūros gaivos. Momentais padvelkia jūros gėrybių stalų. Džiovintų vaisių ir sieros tik šiek tiek ir tik dėl kompleksiškumo. O kaip kitaip? Dar paminėčiau tokius reikalus, kaip saldainiai, salyklas, juodas pipiras, čili pipiriukai, druskos užuominos. Vaškas ir skrudinta karamelė. Labai tirštas kūnas. Ilgas poskonis su druska ir eukaliptu. Mano trys centai. Toks koks turėtų būti Bowmore ir nemažiau. Viskio branda tiesiog spindi ir nepalieka abejingų. 91 taškas. Taškas, viskas.

Strathisla 1976/2016, 30YO, 61.1%, Distillery Bottling, for Friends of Single Malt Bonn, Sherry Cask, 80 butelių, Statinės Nr. 4222, NCF/NCA/CS
Taigi, taip, 1976 Strathisla, brendusi 30 metų chereso statinėje. Beje, jei kada sutiksit stipriai durpintą Strathisla versiją, tai etiketė turėtų vadintis Craigduff. Nosis. Mokyklos biblioteka, seni laikraščiai, kamparas, medžio lakas, tabako lapai, cukruotas apelsinas, kramtoma guma, cukatos, kristalizuoti vaisiai, saldus žoliškumas. Kepti riešutai. Knygos. Senas ir dulkėtas medis. Another winner. Laikas taurėje ir reakcija su šviežiu oru sunaikina viskio senumo jausmą, to pasekoje atsiranda saldūs vaisiai, salyklas. Skonis. Old school cheresas. Juoda arbata, tabako žali lapai, juodasis šokoladas, apelsinai, juodi pipirai. Žvėris, kiek kūno, kiek požiūrio, kiek jausmo. Dulkėtas medis. Saldus ir sausas. Džiovinti vaisiai ir šiek tiek daržoviškumo. Labai aliejiškas ir tirštas. Vėl juodi pipirai. Pradžia tokia švelni, tada traukia, traukia ir tada bam. Apgaulingas reikalas, bet pučiantis viską. Poskonis. Tabako lapų ir sour bitter citrusų reikalas. Mano trys centai. Didžiulis charakteris ir asmenybė. Beje, kurioje vietoje buvo 61.1% stiprumas? Asmeniškai nepastebėjau. Kosmosas, viskas puikiai integruota ir sustyguota. Vien tik balansas ko vertas. 93 taškai ir net galvočiau eiti į didesnę pusę. O gal visgi?

Grosperrin 32YO, 52.8%, Cadenhead, Grande Champagne, 384 buteliai, 2018 vasara, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Turbūt, jau tai tampa kaip ir tradicija. Tai yra, šiek tiek atsipūsti nuo viskio ir pabandyti paieškoti lygiaverčių alternatyvų. Taigi, konjakas. Pradėkime nuo nosies. Rudasis cukrus, kriaušės, džiovintos ir šviežios slyvos, greipfrutai. Reiškiasi ąžuolas, bet man netrukdo. O dar bus? Mentolis, žalias obuolys, figos. Netipiškai šviežias konjakas, su daugybe šviežių vaisių. Laikas ir vanduo padeda atskleisti senos statinės ir dulkėto medžio natas. Skonis. Vėlgi, smagiai šviežias. Obuoliai, kriaušės ir daugybė charakterio. Skonyje radau daugiau statinės nei kvape. Konjakas švarus ir neįkyriai kartus. Pridėčiau dar tokias skonio natas, kaip slyvos, vyšnios, citrusų ir serbentų rūgštelė, vynuogės, juodas pipiras. Sausas, vidutinio kūno. Liežuvio šonuose vynuogių saldumas su trupučiu prieskonių. Momentais medžio dūmas. Mano trys centai. Tiesa pasakius visai nenustebino. Tikėjausi puikaus konjako, tai ir gavau. Mano supratimu puiki alternatyva viskiui ir akiračio praplėtimui. 89 taškai.

Teaninich 1983/2018, 35YO, 57.5%, Signatory Vintage, 30th Anniversary, Refill Butt, 575 buteliai, Statinės Nr. 8070, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Taip, taip, žinau, tai jau bus trečias salyklinis viskis iš gimtadienio serijos. Negaliu sustoti, bet pažadu, kad tai bus paskutinis. Cha, cha. Jeigu leisit…Nosis. Pilnas, tvirtas, bet tuo pačiu elegantiškas, charakteringas. Gėliškas, salykliškas, brandus ir labai vaisiškas. Kvapnus vaisių sodas ir vaisių žiedlapiai. Toliau seka karamelė, keptas bananas, apelsinai, daržoviškumas, kremiškumas. Momentais reiškiasi citrinų rūgštelė ir medžio anglis. Gėlių sodas pavasarį. Skonis. Žolelių kartumas, kremiškumas, medžio sausumas, migdolai. Vėlgi daugybė vaisių ir jų saldumo. Nepasakytum, kad 35 metai, jauno viskio pojūtis. Kodėl ne? Bet kas svarbiausia šiuo atveju, neturi tipiškai jauno viskio atributų. Apveliantis burną. Gyvas ir labai žvitrus. Toks nenorintis pasenti senolis, ar tai senas hipsteris. Cha cha. Skonyje taip pat daug charakterio. Didesnis viskio gurkšnis smagiai smaugia burną ir jos receptorius. Mano trys centai. Tai, kaip manot? Aš tai gerai manau. Nebuvo visiško wow efekto, bet žinai, tai buvo nuoširdus ir truputi kitoks viskis. Galbūt ir nesijaučia tų 35 metų brandinimo, bet kam tai rūpi, kai salyklas toks geras. 88 taškai.

Talisker 1979/1995, 16YO, 63.2%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, Oak Cask, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Čia dabar kas…16 metų Talisker. Tarkim išsigandau. Taigi kas vyko prieš 40 metų šiam pasauly? Šį pasaulį išvydo šis Talisker, arba gimė Valentino Rossi. Beje vis dar važiuojantis aukščiausiame lygyje. Pagarba. Gal jau grįžtam prie viskio? Nosis. Labai įdomu. Šviežiai pjauta žolė kaimyno kieme, korys, tamsus medus, šiltas vaškas, juodieji pipirai. Tai visgi Talisker ragauju. Kas toliau? Laikas ir vanduo išskiria tropinių vaisių galeriją. Paminėčiau tokius, kaip papajos, guavos, marakujos, galbūt melionai. Durpės sėdusios konkrečiai, bet tikrai jaučiasi ir maloniai papildo visa šį kvapą. Jei trumpai, tai būtų: Talisker ir tropiniai vaisiai. Skonis. Ko čia tikėtis? Aha, skonyje daugiau durpės, dūmo, skrudinto medžio ir juodųjų pipirų. Čia taip pat mane pasitinka tropiniai vaisiai. Gal ne taip ryškiai, bet viskas savo vietoje. Skonyje atsiranda natos, kaip druskos, minerališkumo, citrinos, juodosios arbatos. Skonis griežtas, išraiškingas, pilnas ir labai solidus. Talisker su WOW efektu ir trumpais blyksniais į Clynelish pusę. Mano trys centai. Primenantis senuosius 25YO CS leidimus, kurie buvo žvėriškai geri. Beje 63.2% stiprumas po 16 metų, tai kelių buvo supiltas į statinę? 70%? 91 taškas. Tikiuosi ne per mažai 😀

Blair Athol 1966/1990, 24YO, 58.4%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, Oak Cask, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Tai yra istorija ir ne kitaip. Kai distilerijoje dirbo visai kita karta žmonių, kurie turėjo savo viziją, koks turėtų būti viskis, koks jo skonis, kvapas ir gamybos būdas. Smagu, kad dar tokie dalykai egzistuoja. Nosis. Aha, labai prieskoningas, su daugybe riešutų ir žolelių. Asmeniškai truputi keista ragauti Blair Athol be chereso įtakos. Lendam giliau. Citrinų žievelės, juodi pipirai, čili pipirai, mezkalas, rudasis cukrus, bazilikas, muskato riešutas, alyvuogių aliejus. Kvapas sakyčiau toks rūstus ir pjaunantis. Jokio lengvo pasivaikščiojimo. O tai koks tada skonis? Taip pat pjaunantis, aršus ir piktas. Kas toliau? Čili pipiras, kardamonas, citrusų rugštelė, pertusinas, cinamonas, lakrica, tabako lapai, kepti riešutai, sūdyta karamelė. Labai pipiriškas ir ne kitaip. Poskonis. Labai ilgas, žoliškas, su manuka medaus apraiškomis. Mano trys centai. Labai sunkus, kitoks, netgi varginantis. Su tokiu viskiu lengvų taškų nebus. Tiesiog reikia prisitaikyti ir susigyventi. Reikia paragauti, kad iki galo suprasti kas tai per reikalas. 89 taškai

Apibendrinant, tai viena iš sėkmingiausių viskio parodų, ragaujant viskius. Kiek silpniau Bruichladdich pasirodė, bet tik truputi. Beje, primenu, kad tai tik asmeninė nuomonė apie šiuos nuostabius viskius. Daugumą rekomenduoju ir ne kitaip, ypač Strathisla ir Blair Athol 1988.

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