Apžvalga. Trys atsitiktiniai salyklai

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Sveiki. Šiandien grįžtame su apžvalga apie viskį. Už lango švelniai lyjant, o dangui esant stipriai apsiniaukus, viskis ragaujasi tikrai neblogai, tad nepraleidžiam progos. Tad, šiandien trys atsitiktiniai salykliniai viskiai iš Škotijos.

Arran 18YO, 46%, NCF/NCA, OB, 2019
Praeitais metais Arran distilerija atsinaujino savo produktų rūbą ir pridėjo keletą naujų salyklinių viskių. Apie dizainą nuomonių būta įvairių, bet aš visada pirmenybę teikiu skysčiui viduje. Pagal spalva matyti, kad chereso statinių nepagailėta. Beabejo, viskis nedažytas. Ne taip seniai mėgavausi naujo leidimo 21 metų versija, kuri išties buvo šauni (88 taškai). Tad, įdomu, ar tie trys metai duos kažkokį skirtumą? Tik vienas kelias sužinoti. Nosis. Chereso išties nemažai, bet tai nėra vienas ir vienintelis arkliukas. Kvapas gaivus, šviežias, prieskoningas, saldokas, gal netgi truputi jūriškas. Džiovinti abrikosai, slyvos, obuoliai ir kriaušės. Truputis prieskonių, kaip cinamonas, bazilikas, pipiras, muskato riešutas ir druska. Momentais lenda sviestiniai sausainiai, švieži vaisiai, cukruoti citrusiniai vaisiai, rozmarinas. Išties gera, įdomi, kompleksiška nosis. Gerai padirbėta su statinėmis, randant balansą tarp įvairių chereso statinių. Su vandeniu nepersistenkit, nes stipriai pradeda lysti prieskoniai. Skonis. Sunkesnis, klampesnis ir su daugiau prieskonių. Sausinantis. Kvape nekrito medis, bet čia jo tikrai yra pakankamai. Internetai rašo, kad brendo chereso statinėse. Nežinau, bet pagal skonį turėtų būti šiek tiek ir burbono bačkų? Vėlgi jaučiu kažkokį minerališkumą, ar tai jūros dvelksmą su druskos užuomenomis. Dar pridėčiau lazdyno riešutus, slyvas, razinas, kavą, ąžuolo taninus, lauro lapus, juodą pipirą. Skonis kitoks nei kvapas. Išties prieskoningas ir apveliantis burną. Poskonis. Vidutinio ilgumo. Šildantis. Su mėsos prieskoniais, salyklu, duona ir citrusais. Mano trys centai. Turbūt būčiau ėjęs toliau, bet kvapas suklaidino. Skonyje neradau to kompleksiškumo, kurį radau kvape. Tad, 87 taškai. Įvertinant viską, rinkčiausi 18 metų versiją, o ne 21. Bet, vėlgi, ko jūs tiksliai norite?

Deanston 15YO, 46.3%, Organic, NCF/NCA, OB, 2017
Deanston distilerija kurį laiką buvo tokia kažkur tarp dangaus ir žemės, bet 2013 metais, atėjus naujiems savininkams, reikalai pajudėjo į gerąją pusę. Nežinau ką jie tiksliai pakeitė, bet iš turimo viskio jie pradėjo kurti įdomias kompozicijas. Plius pridėjo skoningą pakuotės dizainą. Ir panašu entuziastai tai įvertino. Nosis. Salyklas, švieži grūdai, miltai, balta duona, garuojanti kava. Kvapas labai stipriai varomas apie salyklą susijusius produktus. Kodėl gi ne? Visada patikdavo, būnant vaiku, užeiti į malūną ar tai į grūdų aruodą. Po grūdais slepiasi: sviestas, vanilė, karamelė, įvairūs citrusai ir medaus puodynė. Ąžuolo yra, bet tie skirtingi kvapai jį subalansuoja ir nepaleidžia. Labai valgomas kvapas. Skonis. Trumpos asociacijos į burboninius Arran viskius, bet tai labai greitai išnyksta. O va čia jaučiasi kvapo tęstinumas. Vėlgi, švieži grūdai, duonos pluta, miltai, kavos pupelės, citrusų aitrumas, vanilinis cukrus, vaisių saldumas. Lengvai sausinantis ir prieskoningas. Bazilikas ir arbatžolės. Ąžuolo skonyje daugiau ir jis čia nėra taip gerai suvaldytas. Toks jausmas, kad burnoje skysta duona su trupučiu ąžuolo kartumo. Poskonis. Ilgas ir truputi pavedantis, nes pasirodo alkoholiškumas. Grūdai, vanilė, medus, balta duona ir truputis kažkokių prieskonių. Mano trys centai. Su savo ydomis. Nėra kažkoks stogą kilnojantis viskis, bet žinot, tai labai labai geriamas salyklas. Įsipili į gertuvę ir gali keliauti ieškoti nuotykių pėsčiomis. 85 taškai.

Glenfarclas 1997/2017, 57.4%, Family Casks, Sherry Butt, 596 buteliai, Statinės nr. 2, NCF/NCA/SC/CS, OB
Glenfarclas distilerija turbūt vos ne vienintelė, kuri vis dar turi išties nemažą dalį statinių, kurių amžius siekia 20, 30, 40 metų. Vis dar priklausanti šeimai, naudojanti „direct firing” procesą, turintį didžiausią „mash tun” ir „still” Speyside rajone. Ir tai yra Glenfarclas. Ai, pamiršau, ir brandinanti didžiąją viskio dalį chereso statinėse. Burboninių versijų ieškokit pas nepriklausomus. Tai bus visai kitoks žvėriukas. Nosis. Et, panašu, kad čia turim viskį, kuris iškart pasitiko su sieros, degtukų, fejerverkų kvapais. Ne tiek, kad būtų baisiai baisu… Duodam laiko, gal išsikvėps iki tinkamo lygio… Panašu, kad lietus aprimo, bandom dar kartą. Oras šiek tiek padėjo, bet tikrai nedingo. Ir tai jau klausimas jums, kiek galite tai toleruoti. Degtukai persipynė su keptais zefyrais, marcipanais, lazdyno riešutais, graikinių riešutų likerių, migdolais, medžio laku, deginta karamele, parfumuotu vandeniu ir senais džiovintais vaisiais. Hiustonai, man rodos turim problemą? Skonis. Čia ta pati siera kaip ir kvape. Kaip man tave sunaikinti? Gal padegti? Po to seka dvigubas espresso, seni džiovinti vaisiai, suskrudus karamelė, medžio taninai, žoliškumas, didelis sausumas, cinamonas, anyžius, sūrūs kepinti migdolai ir muskato riešutas. Gal bus geriau „afteryje”? Poskonis. Iš tiesų geriau. Graikinių riešutų likeris, džiovinti vaisiai, alyvuogių aliejus, ąžuolo kartumas ir neaiškios kilmės pelėsis. Mano trys centai. Grynai skonio reikalas, bet tai tikrai ne man. Liūdniausia, kad išimkime vieną natą iš skonio, kvapo ir viskas, ir turim giedrą dangų. Beabejo, viskis nėra lėkštas, vienpusis, bekvapis, skystas ar dar koks nors. Bet siera visus tuos kvapus iškraipo ir gaunasi taip, kad atėjęs toks dainininkas, kaip aš, bando atlikti Billy Idol dainas. 80 užuojautos taškų.

Labas, Deanston ir Arran, gerai, kad esat, reikia nuplauti sielvartą. Žinoma, juokauju. Iki kitų susiskaitymų. Likit sveiki ir stiprūs.

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