Apžvalga. Pasaulio viskiai. II dalis

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Sveiki kolegos ir ne tik. Šįkart grįžtam su pasaulio viskiais ir tai yra Švedija. Man kiek netikėtai, bet turbūt pelnytai, šiandien ant stalo trys salykliniai viskiai iš Smögen. Toli gražu ne visiems žinoma distilerija, bet jau spėjusi įgauti autoritetą kaip labai puikaus salyklinio viskio gamintoja. Beabejo, palyginus su Škotijos distilerijomis ši yra visiškai nykštukinė: gaminanti apie 35000 litrų grynojo alkoholio per metus. Įkurta 2009 metais teisininko, rašytojo (Enjoying Malt Whisky) ir viskio entuziasto Pär Caldenby. Distilerijos vardas duotas pagal visai šalia esančios salos vardą. Beje, gaminanti ne tik viskį, bet ir džiną (o kas dabar jo negamina?). Naudojanti tik vietines sudėtines dalis, o pati distilerija yra pilnai valdoma rankiniu būdu. Užteks taukšti, keliaujam prie viskio.

Smögen 8YO, 2012/2020, 59.8%, ex-Burbono (barrels) ir ex-Chereso statinės (hogsheads), NCF/NCA/CS, OB
Išreikšiu apgailestavimus, kad šiuo metu visa produkcija yra pilstoma į 50cl dydžio butelius, kas manau dalį entuziastų atbaido. Nosis. Pirmas įkvėpimas mane sugrąžina prie apžvalgų, kuriose buvo rašoma apie Ailos salos viskius. Dūminis, kiek durpinis, su užuominomis apie pelenus, citrusus ir saldžia durpe. Bet tai tikrai ne viskas. Šaltas laužas, druska, jodas, kumpis, kepti zefyrai, skrudintas medis, riešutai, čipotlė, vanilės ankštis, čiobrelių arbata, kartusis šokoladas ir kakaviškas sausumas. Iš esmės, tai intensyvus, labai pilnas, charakteringas ir kompleksiškas kvapas. Nesinori ištraukti nosies. Gal truputį H2O? Sausesnis, švaresnis ir labiau tiesmukas. Nepraradęs visiškai intensyvumo. Jūriškesnis. Skonis. Lengvos asociacijos su Caol Ila, Lagavulin ir Laphroaig. Bet toli gražu iki kopijos (gerąja prasme). Žoliškas, daržoviškas, dūmiškas, citrusinis ir labai prieskoningas. Čia dar daugiau charakterio nei nosyje. Labai intensyvus, aliejiškas ir visiškai užgulantis burną. Sodo vaisių saldumas. Kumpis, čili pipirai, džiovinti vaisiai, juoda kava, kartusis šokoladas, cinamonas ir meduoliai. Mano supratimu, alkoholio integracija yra visiškai pavykusi. H2O. Kiek sumažėjęs intensyvumas, bet vietoje to pasiūlantis daugiau saldumo, sausumo, vaisiškumo ir ąžuolo. Poskonis. Vidutinio ilgumo. Citrinų likeris, juodos alyvuogės, dūmas, galbūt tropiniai vaisiai. Mano trys centai. Geras plaukikas, bet aš teikčiau pirmenybę tik orui, o tada mėgautis pilna jėga. Chereso natų aptikau tik keletą, jei kam nors tai rūpi. Bendrai paėmus, vienas iš geriausių 8 metų viskių kokius teko ragauti. 89 taškai.

Smögen 100 proof 6YO, 57.1%, ketvirtadalio dydžio chereso statinės (125l), Partijos nr. 2, NCF/NCA, OB
Na čia rimtai turi būti chereso, visgi ketvirtadalio dydžio statinės ir jokių ex-burbono statinių. Nosis. O taip, brangioji. Cheresas ir dūmas. „Topinė” nosis. Razinos, slyvos, braziliški riešutai, juodos alyvuogės, jūros gėrybės, juodas pipiras, druska, šlapia žemė ir vanilės ankštis. Iš esmės dar galingesnė nosis, nei prieš tai buvusio. Iš esmės švari, sausa, kompleksiška nosis. Ir, kas svarbiausia, neperspausta su chereso įtaka. Puikus balansas. O kaip su H2O? Intensyvumas truputėlį krenta, bet iš esmės nematau problemos. To pasekoje kvapas darosi gilesnis, sudėtingesnis, o kvapai lengviau aptinkami. Darželio gėlės, irisas, džiovintas tabakas, seni laikraščiai ir truputis džiovintų vaisių. Skonis. Oh my. Sunku patikėti tuo šešetu, kuris randasi ant etiketės. Momentais primena „oldskulinius” cherese brandintus viskius. Visiškai intensyvus, labai pilnas, sausas, stringantis už skruostų. Dūmas, cheresas, stipriai kepti lazdyno riešutai, rūkyti migdolai, juodoji arbata, tamsus medus, galbūt saldus tabakas. Nemanau, kad H2O kažką sugadins. Taip, gerai. Intensyvumas mažesnis, bet viskis atrodo labiau išbaigtas. Espresso kava, kepinių prieskoniai, sausas Oloroso vynas ir truputis medicinos. Poskonis. Labai ilgas su vis naujai atrandamais poskoniais. Druska, graikinių riešutų likeris, razinos, juodasis šokoladas ir anyžius. Mano trys centai. Ką aš galiu pasakyti? Čia neapsieita be puikaus distiliato, puikių statinių ir 6 metų. Tiek tos mano kompetencijos…91 taškas ir šeši metai.

Smögen 8YO, 2013/2021, 58.3%, Madeira vyno statinė (barrique), Tiražas 372 buteliai, Statinės nr. 6/2013, NCF/NCA/SC/CS, OB
Dar vienas aštuntukas šį vakarą. Tiesą pasakius, neįsivaizduoju ką jis gali prieš pastatyti lyginant su prieš tai buvusiu. Bet atmetam nusistatymus ir keliaujam. Nosis. Intensyvus, jūriškas, kiek užgožtas statinės, truputį alkoholiškas, limpantis ir ąžuoliškas. Degantis šienas, gėlių daržas, klevų sirupas, laužas, medicina, karamelė, fermentuoti vaisiai, lazdyno riešutai, eukaliptas ir kompostas. Pradžia kiek keistoka, bet labai įdomi. Bandom su H2O sutvarkyti tam tikrus reikalus. Ir iš tiesų tai veikia. Ramesnis, vaisiškesnis, saldesnis, labiau subalansuotas, o alkoholiškumas taip pat nebėra problema. Jo tiesiog nėra. Netgi subtilesnis. Ramunėlių arbata, vanilė, vaisiai mirkyti rome ir medus. Skonis. Labai sausas, prieskoningas, truputį alkoholiškas, labai intensyvus, aliejiškas, kiek saldokas ir ąžuoliškas. Medžio dūmas, BBQ padažas, kumpis, ant laužo kepti vaisiai, sūrūs kukurūzų spragėsiai, lazdyno riešutai ir truputis pelenų. Įdomu, kaip su H2O? Medžio anglis, juoda arbata ir arbatžolės. Čia taip pat dingsta alkoholiškumas. Atsiranda balansas. Poskonis. Vidutinio ilgumo. Kiek vaisiškai saldus. Baltas vynas, apelsinai ir jų žievelės. Mano trys centai. Kiek silpnesnis leidimas (jei taip galima pasakyti), bet kokybė aukšta. Galbūt statinė pasitaikė kiek silpnesnė. Labai puikiai veikiantis su vandeniu, kuris sutvarko dar ir keletą problemėlių. 87 taškai.

Aš fanas, visiškas. Kai pradžioje sakiau „kiek netikėtai”, tai buvo apie tai, kad pirmas butelaitis buvo pirktas visiškai aklai, o dabar jau mūsų yra trys. Jei kada nors jie pradės pilstyti į 70cl butelius, tai bus visiškas kainos įteisinimas, kai kokybė yra tokia aukšta.
Šiandien tiek ir iki kitų greitų susiragavimų. Likite sveiki ir stiprūs.

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