Apžvalga. Organic+Bere+Islay=Bruichladdich

Daugeliui yra žinoma, kad Bruichladdich distilerija stipriai žaidžia su skirtingais salykliniais miežiais, kurie buvo auginti skirtingose Škotijos vietose. Ir bando įrodyti, kad salyklas nemažesnis karalius, nei statinė. Beabejo, jie nėra vieninteliai. Distilerija Waterford į šį reikalą yra įsitraukusi nepalyginamai giliau, bet kažką daugiau pasakyti, kol galutinių produktų nematyti yra sunku. Tad grįžkime prie Bruichladdich ir pabandykime patyrinėti jau esančius produktus.

Bruichladdich 2009/2018, 50%, Organic Barley, Oak Casks, NCF/NCA, OB
Tikiuosi ir statinės buvo Organic…Kas galėtų įrodyti? Tebūnie, pasitikim. Nosis. Kvapas pasitinka ramiai, užtikrintai su pakankamu jaunatviškumu. Viskis jaunas, bet neaptinku daug jauno viskio atributų. Kas toliau? Citrinos, apelsinai, jūros oras, šviežiai malti grūdai. Maža kepyklėlė gretimoje gatvėje. Momentais pasirodo gėliškumas, arbatžolės, persikai, abrikosai. Nežinau ir nematau, dėl ko tai kažkam nepatiktų. Man labai patinka. Pridėčiau, kad ąžuolo įtaka nedidelė. Skonis. Jausmas, lyg ką tik būčiau perkandęs šviežią grūdą. Viskis vidutinio kūno, bet smagiai aliejiškas ir su pakankamu užtaisu. O detaliau? Žoliškumas, limoncello (tik saldumo nebuvo), citrusu aitrumas/kartumas/rūgštumas, obuolys, tešla, juodasis pipiras, vaisiai ir salyklas. Skonis puikus ir gal net labiau patiko nei kvapas. Poskonis. Ilgas, gaivinantis, saldokas, su citrusais, salyklu ir šviežiais grūdais. Mano trys centai. Nedažnai tenka ragauti tokio profilio viskių, tad tenka šiek tiek padirbėti, kad išskirtum, kas yra kas. Kitaip sakant, nemanau, kad tai yra pradedančiųjų viskis. 87 taškai

Bruichladdich 2008/2018, 50%, Bere Barley, Oak Casks, NCF/NCA, OB
Bere miežiai yra senovinė škotiškų grūdų kultūra. Manoma, kad 8 amžiuje vikingai atvežė šią grūdų rūšį į Škotiją. Jie yra sunkiai auginami, derlius gana mažas, ypač, jei lygintume su šiuolaikinėmis grūdų kultūromis. Viskio gamyboje jie taip pat nėra „geruliai”. Tad kodėl jie yra naudojami? Taigi, nosis. Šviežias, gaivinantis ir prieskoningas. Gal netgi šiek tiek ramesnis, nei organic versija. Tęsiam? O, taip. Salyklas, šviežios bandelės, mielės, ramunėlių arbata, citrusai (šįkart neradau Limoncello, atsiprašau), saldūs vaisiai. Kvapas gilesnis, rafinuostesnis, įtraukiantis. Dar radau užuomenas į spygliuočių mišką, minerališkumą, smėlį, kreidą, galbūt keptas saulėgrąžas. Jokių vanilių, karamelių, kokosų. Beje geras plaukikas, rekomenduoju panaudoti šiek tiek vandens. Skonis. Griežtas, aliejingas, gerai užsukantis. Skrendam toliau. Apelsinai, citrusų kartumas, grikiai, selenos, žoliškumas, jūriškumas, mielės, rapsų aliejus, vaisių saldumas. Puikiai guli burnoje ir vis norisi sukti ir sukti ratais. Labai geras balansas, tarp visų skonių ir pačio viskio jausmo burnoje. Masė citrusų ir žoliškumo, o kas „blogiausia”, kad balansas vistiek yra. Super. Poskonis. Šviežias, šaldantis ir salykliškas su citrusų kartumu ir juodos duonos riekele. Mano trys centai. Pasikartosiu, visiškai nepanašus į tuos vanilinius, karamelinius ir uber vaisiškus viskius. Čia truputi sudėtingiau ir komplikuočiau. O man tai patinka gilintis, taip, kad ramiai. 88 taškai

Bruichladdich 2010/2018, 50%, Islay Barley, Oak Casks, NCF/NCA, OB
Ir paskutinis šiandienos reikalas, tai Islay Barley. Musėt salyklas buvo pilnai augintas Ailos saloje. Hm. Beje, tai jauniausias viskis šioje trijulėje. Gal nebus blogiausias. Nosis. Aha, kitoks ir turiu galvoje, kad kvapas tikrai kitoks. Manyčiau kompozicijoje buvo kažkiek naudotos ex-vyno arba ex-chereso statinės. Statyčiau už ex-cheresą. Džiovinti vaisiai, karamelė, cinamonas, kavos pupelės, tabako lapai, šaltas laužas, medžio anglis, minimalus dūmelis. Šitas reikalas sunkesnis ir labiau į statinių pusę. Kas toliau? Kita vertus viskis vis tik išlaikęs savo gaivumą, minerališkumą, jodą ir druskos užuomenas. Balansas yra ir tai yra gerai. Momentais pagaunu alyvuogių aliejų, seną odą, kamparą, šviežiai pjautą žolę. Įdomus padaras. Skonis. Citrusų ir medžio kartumas momentais pykstasi, bet ne stipriai. O toliau kas? Žoliškumas, ajerai, skrudintas salyklas, juodos duonos pluta, espresso kava, perkepto pyrago pluta, uogos, dūmas, alyvuogės. Momentais primena cheresinius Port Charlotte viskius. Būtų gaila nepaminėti juodą pipirą, baziliką, citrinų aliejų, eukaliptą ir pipirmetę. Keista, bet ir vėl kažkuom primena Port Charlotte viskius. Poskonis. Ilgokas, kartokas, su anglies, skrudinto medžio, jodo, druskos natomis. Mano trys centai. Galbūt ir nereikėjo čia chereso kišti, bet anyway. Kokybiškas ir nenuobodus viskis. 85 taškai.

Du dalykai. Pirma, tikiuosi, kad distilerija pasilieka po keletą, ar daugiau statinių tolimesniam brandinimui. Po penkių, ar dešimties metų šie viskiai bus vakarėlio žudikais. Ir antra, manau, kad šie eksperimentai tikrai pasitvirtina ir suteikia viskio mylėtojui kitokį požiūrį. O kartais mums tik ir reikia kitokio požiūrio.

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