Apžvalga. Kvartetas iš žemumų

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Sveiki. Taigi žemumos, kurios yra dažnai pražiūrimos, kad esam pilni išankstinių nusistatymų ir ne tik. Kita vertus, negaliu kitų plakti, nes ir pats rašiau tik vieną apžvalgą apie žemumų viskius. Ir tai tikrai nebuvo Bladnoch distilerija. Tiesa pasakius, negaliu patikėti, kad dar nė karto neturėjau Bladnoch viskių šiuose namuose. Tad, skubam taisyti klaidas ir griebiam šiuos salyklinius viskius. Pora nepriklausomų ir pora oficialių leidimų. Riedam link…

Bladnoch 1990/2016, 46%, Frangipane Canape, Wemyss Malts, Hogshead, 222 buteliai, NCF/NCA/SC
Taigi, amžius turėtų būti apie 25 – 26 metus. ’90, ’91, ’92 metų vintažai, kiek mano liežuvis mena, yra vieni sėkmingiausių. Taigi, kas tas Frangipane Canape? Mažas krekeris, blynelis ar kažkas panašaus užteptas migdolų kremu. Kai pagaliau išsiaiškinom santykius, galim eiti viskiauti. Nosis. Maloni, elegantiška, švari ir labai kvapni. Kvapų pirmi akordai priminė liepos – rugpjūčio mėnesius, kai vaisių soduose pilnu tempu noksta vaisiai. Ir iš tiesų. Obuoliai, kriaušės, geltonos slyvos, raudonos uogos ir abrikosai. Vėlyvos vasaros kvapai. Prie šių vasarotojų jungiasi: šiltas sviestas, cukraus pudra, lazdyno riešutai, šviežias ąžuolas, vanilės ankštis ir Bounty batonėlis. Momentais iš tiesų primena kažkokį saldų kepinį. Norėtųsi didesnio kompleksiškumo, bet iš esmės viskas gerai. Beje, leiskit gerai pakvėpuoti, kad dingtų panaudoto aliejaus nata. Skonis. Gana kremiškas, lengvai saldokas, netgi sultingas. Čia taip pat sutinku įvairių sodo vaisių, bet skonyje labiau reiškiasi jų saldumas. Toliau seka liepžiedžių arbata, kokoso pienas ir šviesus medus. Taip pat skonyje randu daugiau charakterio, kuris reiškiasi per prieskonių prizmę. Muskato riešutas, bazilikas, baltas pipiras ir apelsino žievelė. Smagiai badantis ir sausinantis burną. Skonis truputį patiko labiau. Poskonis. Vidutinio ilgumo. Šildantis, su medaus ir prieskonių apraiškomis. Mano trys centai. Nematomis ragaujant būtų sunku nusakyti amžių, bet pats viskis šaunus, klasiškas, kvapnus ir labai gardus. Aišku, tai ne tas Bladnoch, kad sau įsikaltum į galvą visam gyvenimui. 87 taškai. Tas saldėsis manau labai šauniai susiragautų su šiuo salyklu.

Bladnoch 1990/2018, 46%, Sweet as a nut, Wemyss malt!, Hogshead, 219 butelių, NCF/NCA/SC
Tas pats vintažas, tas pats stiprumas, ta pati statinė, tik pora papildomų metų. Ai ir skirtingas pavadinimas. Šis pavadinimas reiškia tam tikrą išsireiškimą, kuris nusako tam tikra sėkmę, dažnai trumpinamas tiesiog „sweet”. Gana pliurpti, tai kaip tas viskis? Nosis. Solidesnis, sodresnis ir su daugiau charakterio nei Canape. Čia atsiranda gėliškumas, žali vaisiai, ryto žolė ir baltas vynas. Saldumo daugiau nei pirmajame. Riešutus čia taip sutinku, bet kiekis manau vienodas. Vanduo atpalaiduoja citrusus, šviežią medų, vašką, tropinius vaisius, saldumynų prieskonius. Kas labai patinka, ir galėtų būti daugiau, kad momentais kvapas primena rytinio miško kvapus. Išties sudėtinga ir tanki nosis. Skonis. Vėlgi sodresnis, gilesnis, saldesnis ir rūgštesnis. Sodo vaisių salotos, kepinti riešutai, tamsus medus, salyklas, ąžuolo prieskoningumas, vaškas, apyniai ir minimalus citrusų aitrumas. Pats skonis ramesnis, nei Canape, bet tai atperka komplesiškumas ir skonio sodrumas. Norisi sukti ir sukti burnoje. Lengvai sausinantis burną. Poskonis. Vidutinio ilgumo ir sausas. Reiškiasi baltų vynuogių rūgštis ir sodo vaisiai. Mano trys centai. Nežinau ar čia tie pora metų taip galėjo kilstelėti šį viskį, o gal statinė buvo labiau gaubta. Bet viskis per tuos metų metus susigulėjo labai puikiai. Ant lentynų tokio reikalo reikia kuo daugiau. Beveik 90, o tai reiškia 89 taškus. Toks gyvenimas, niekas nežadėjo, kad bus lengva.

Bladnoch 22YO, 1990/2013, 51%, Hogshead, Statinės nr. 5741, NCF/NCA/SC/CS, OB
Oficialus išpilstymas prieš 2015 metus, kai distilerija buvo nupirkta Australijos verslininko ir SWA CEO. Išpilstytas prieš pat Kalėdas, tad čia galėjo atsitikti įvairių dalykų…Kažkas neatėjo į darbą, kažkas jau gyveno atostogų ritmu ir taip toliau. Tad viskis turbūt gavosi nekoks. Aš aišku juokauju. Nosis. Gilus, šviežias, švarus ir tankus. Pradžia nuteikia labiau nei optimistiškai. Citriniškas rūgštumas, kepta duona, grūdų aruodas, kepėjo kampelis, baltas vynas, arbatžolės, šviežiai kirpta žolė pas kaimyną už tvoros ir kokoso drožlės. Momentais lenda stipriai degintas medis ir saulėgrąžų aliejus. Su vandeniu: labiau kremiškesnis, apvalesnis ir rūgštesnis. Taip ir toliau! Skonis. Labai šviežias, švarus, salykliškas, ir rūgštus. Stipriai charakteringas, nelengvas ir intensyvus. Citrinų pyragas, bazilikas, pipirmėtė, ąžuolo sausumas, arbatžolės ir duonos kriaukšlė. Saldumas reiškiasi per vaisių ir salyklo prizmę, o jo, tiesą sakant, nėra mažai. Mano supratimu neperspausta. Sausumas išties didelis. Vanduo suteikia daugiau saldumo, sausumo, kremiškumo. Medžio anglis? Poskonis. Ilgas, intensyvus, sausas ir šiek tiek kartokas. Arbatžolių ir baltos duonos natos. Mano trys centai. Labai geras plaukikas, puikiai išlaikantis intensyvumą. Gana skirtingas nuo Wemmys malt leidimų. Šitas labiau linkęs į salikliškumą, citrusus, rūgštumą. Sudėtingesnis. Beabejo, tie 5% jam padėjo, bet distilerijos parinkta statinė išties patiko labiau. Lengva ranka, 90 taškų.

Bladnoch 2005/2020, 14YO, 51.5%, Manzanilla Hogshead, Statinės nr. 1024, 323 buteliai, NCF/NCA/SC/CS, OB
Ir paskutinis šiandienos klientas yra jau kurtas naujų savininkų. Neaišku, ar tai visiškai brandintas ar finišuotas manzanilla statinėje, pabandykime išsiaiškinti. Nosis. Gana uždara, drovi, stipriai paveikta statinės. Įdomiausia, kad per statinę vis tiek smelkiasi žoliškumas ir gėliškumas. Medžio anglis, sūri karamelė, kakavos pupelės, kartusis šokoladas, skrudinti žemės riešutai (be druskos), apelsinų uogienė, džiovintos citrusų žievelės. Vanduo pastiprina apelsinų ir skrudinto medžio pasivaidenimus. Mėsos prieskoniai. Statinės išties geros būta. Didžiulė įtaka, bet balansas čia. Kvapas išties sukelia burnai jausmą, kad laikas išskirti seiles. Skonis. Situacija čia nesikeičia, didelė bačkos įtaka, bet distilerijos charakteris tikrai nėra užgožtas. Pats skonis kompaktiškesnis nei nosis. Apelsinų uogienė, kartusis šokoladas, karamelė, saldumynų prieskoniai, kapučino kava ir lazdyno riešutai. Momentais žoliškumas ir juoda arbata rodo savo veidus. Vanduo padidina sausinimo efektą. Poskonis. Ilgas. Pipirmėtė, ąžuolo sausumas ir apelsino rūgštumas. Mano trys centai. Vanduo iš tiesų padeda išjudinti šį salyklinį Bladnoch’ą, bet labai nepersistenkit, nes gana greitai prarandamas intensyvumas, o sausumo efektas išties padidėja. Mano supratimu išties labai sėkmingas leidimas. Statinė dominuoja, bet distiliatas nėra sunaikintas ir kažkokiame pasaulyje jie randa bendrą kalbą. Kas nors jau ragavot naują 11YO leidimą? Prasineškit. 88 taškai.

Išties įdomus ir geras Bladnoch vakaras. Mano nuomonė tokia, kad jauniklis visai puikiai atlaikė ’90 metų vintažo spaudimą. Beje, už tą pačią kainą galite rinktis jauniklį arba 90 metus. Jūsų ėjimas! Aš jau savo padariau.
Iki kitų susiragavimų. Likite sveiki ir stiprūs.

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