Apžvalga. Kvartetas iš Ailos

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Sveiki gyvi. Šiandien esam svečiuose pas Bunnahabhain. Ant stalo turime du oficialius distilerijos išpilstymus ir porą salyklinių viskių iš nepriklausomų kompanijų. Manau bus išties įdomu. Nieko nelaukiam, pradedam!

Bunnahabhain 2002/2020, 53%, Feis Ile 2020, Madeira wine cask finish, 1164 buteliai, NCF/NCA/CS, OB
Pirmąjį viskį pasirinkau Feis Ile 2020 su Madeira vyno užbaigimu. Paskutinius tris metus šis viskis vilgė vyno statines iš Madeira salos. Taigi, tai negreitas finišas, o pakankamai ilgas laiko tarpas paveikti viskį iš giliau. Beabejo, nežinom kelinto pildymo tai statinės ir koks Madeira vyno tipas. Nosis. Ir kvapas duoda suprasti, kad tai nebuvo pačios aktyviausios statinės, bet tikrai nepavargusios. Labai kvapnus, saldokas ir pilnas. Manyčiau, kad tai buvo pusiau saldžios (Boal) Madeiros bačkos ar netgi saldžios (Malvasia). Sūdyta karamelė, skrudinti riešutai, tamsus medus, lengvas pipiriškumas, rūgštūs citrusai, parafinas, citrusų uogienė. Negaliu nepaminėti vaisių kompoto, didelio salykliškumo ir lengvo mėsos prieskonių aitrumo. Keli lašai vandens padidina citrusų koncentraciją. Skonis. Čia daugiau charakterio nei kvape. Tamsus medus, kepti citrusai, saldus salyklas, sūrus sausainiai, zefyrai, ąžuolo taninai ir vyno rūsys. Neblogai sausinantis burną. Skonyje stipresnė vyno įtaka, bet čia labiausiai jaučiasi balansas iš salyklo ir mėsos prieskonių pusės. Kitaip sakant, ne vien desertais varomas skonis. Kita vertus, tarp skonio ir kvapo yra nemažas skirtumas. Poskonis. Trumpokas, su šiek tiek salyklo, šlapio rūsio ir aitrių prieskonių apraiškomis. Mano trys centai. Su vandeniu tik nepersistenkit, nes skonis nuplokštėja. Toks desertinis ir ne visai. 87 taškai.

Bunnahabhain 27YO, 48.4%, Refill hogsheads, The Single Malts of Scotland, NCF, 2018
Taigi, iš 1989 – 1991 metų derliaus. Kurtas panaudojant klasikines viskio statines, kurių buvo keturios. Jokių Tabasco ar marinuotų agurkėlių statinių :D. Nosis. Švarus, gyvas, malonus ir labai aromatingas. Net sakyčiau traškus (kažkokia prasme). Kvapas iš tų, kur nėra kažkokių aiškių dūmiškumo ar durpiškumo natų, šiuo atveju, labai jūriškas. Daug šviežių citrinų ir truputis druskos ant sumuštinio su sviestu. Kas dar? Kremiškas, aliejiškas, su vaško natomis. Taip pat yra didelis tropinis vaisiškumas ir platūs javų laukai. Momentais lenda džiūstantis šienas ir gėliškumas. Žiūrim kas per Skonis. Ok…Jie kartais nesumaišė Clynelish statinių su Bunos? Ne, aš rimtai ir nuoširdžiai. O gal tai buvo ex-Clynelish refill hogsheads? Medaus statinė, parafinas, bičių duonelė, didelis jūriškumas, mėta, juodas pipiras, ramunėlių ir liepžiedžių arbata. Švarus, švelnus ir gilus. Pabumbėčiau, kad pats skonis gana skystokas, norėtųsi daugiau aliejiškumo ir kūno. Poskonis. Ilgokas. Sodo vaisiai, vaškas, mėtos ir citrusai. Mano trys centai. Išties labai labai įdomus viskis, su Bunnhabhain nosimi ir Clynelish kūnu. Bet aš išties mėgavausi šiuo dariniu. Iki 90 taškų pritrūko kūno ir aliejiškumo. Tad, 89 taškai.

Bunnahabhain 26YO, 1990/2016, 54.7%, Berry Bros & Rudd, statinės nr. 11, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Antra Bunna iš panašaus laikotarpio. Įtariu, kad čia bus viskas greitai. Bet neskubėkime. Kas gi įdomaus vyko 1990 metais? Pavyzdžiui, Sinead O’Connor išleido Nothing Compares 2 U dainą. Šis hitas kaip mat ją išgarsino. Beje, šią daina parašė pats Prince. Arba dar, 1990 balandžio 29 dieną buvo pradėta griauti Berlyno siena Brandenburge. Nosis. Aha, tikrai taip. Panašu į prieš tai buvusią Bunną. Didelis jūriškumas, žemiškumas, grūdų malūnas, kepta duona su druska, žalios alyvuogės, citrinų aliejus, neprinokusių obuolių rūgštis, mėta ir kamparas. Tropiniai vaisiai čia taip pat taria savo žodį. Aromatingas, šviežias ir labai švarus. Papildomai keli laipsniai prideda viskiui ryškumo ir užbaigtumo. Skonis. Aha ir čia yra Clynelish ar netgi kažko iš Campbeltown. Tik šįkart ne taip ryškiai. Sūdyti žemės riešutai, citrusų rūgštis, didelis salykliškumas, alyvuogių aliejus, didelis riešutiškumas, parafinas ir medaus puodynė. Pats skonis aliejiškas, gilus, smagiai badantis receptorius ir šiek tiek sausinantis. Momentais lenda arbatžolės, apelsinai ir mėsos prieskoniai. Poskonis. Ilgas, šildantis ir minerališkas. Citrusai, aitrūs prieskoniai ir laužas. Mano trys centai. Manau su kaupu atidirbo savo įvertinamą. Tie du išties artimi viskiai, bet šitas manau yra šiek tiek geresnė pirmojo versija. Natūralu, 90 taškų. P. S. Neblogai perneša H2O, ypač skonyje. Pasidaro apvalesnis ir elegantiškesnis. Arba dar vienas, 1990 metais, Hubble teleskopas atsiuntė pirmąją fotografiją iš kosmoso.

Bunnahabhain 2010/2020, 56.9%, Feis Ile 2020, Amontillado Sherry Finish, 1658 buteliai, NCF/NCA/CS, OB
Ir pabaigai pasilikau jauną ir pytintą Bunnahabhain salyklinį viskį. Beje, kai kuriuose šaltiniuose nurodoma, kad nuo vėlyvųjų 90 – ųjų Bunnahabhain distilerija gaminasi apie 20% pytinto distiliato. Asmeniškai, nedažnai tenka ragauti jauną ir durpintą Bunną, o jei dar pridėtume Amontilado statines, tai…Nosis. Galinga ir išraiškinga. Ryškios dūmiškumo natos ir jokių „creepy” nukrypimų. Druska, jodas, jūros žolės, žemiškumas ir jūros gėrybės. Išties puiki pradžia. Kas toliau? Espresso kava, kakavos sausumas, visiškai juodas šokoladas ir juodas pipiras. Labai geras balansas. Viskas atrodo laiku ir vietoje. Skonis. Smūgiuojantis ir labai aliejiškas. Daug dūmiškumo ir minerališkumo. Visiškai juodas šokoladas (koks Lindt 90%), druska, kartonas, laužas, šlapias rūsys, juoda kava, kakava, kepti citrusai, alyvuogės, slyvų kauliukas, kamparas ir jūros gėrybes. Nors skonis ir ne pats kompleksiškiausias, bet labai pilnas ir smagus. Poskonis. Ilgas su dideliu dūmiškumu. Kartusis šokoladas, juodas pipiras, skrudintas salyklas ir galbūt truputis apelsinų žievelės. Mano trys centai. Išties šaunus jauniklis. Tiksliai nepasakysiu kiek viskis paveiktas Amontilado chereso, bet kad čia jis tinka, tai tikrai. 89 taškai.

Kaip ragautuvės greitai bėga. Štai ir pasibaigė dar viena sesija su Škotijos viskiais. Manau, kainos ir kokybės nugalėtoju skelbčiau dūminuką (vertinu pagal pradinę jo kainą).
Iki kitų susiragavimų. Likite sveiki ir stiprūs.

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