Apžvalga. Clynelish, Benrinnes ir Springbank

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Sveiki. Grįžtam! Tradiciškai trys viskiai iš Škotijos. Distilerijos parinktos atsitiktinai, o eiliškumas sudėliotas taip, kad pačiam gale tektų ragauti labiausiai durpintą reikalą. Nieko naujo. Keliaujam.

Clynelish 1995/2013, 46%, Pork & Plum Terrine, Wemyss Malts, hogshead, 303 buteliai, statinės nr. 10218, NCF/NCA/SC
Tiesa pasakius, Clynelish distilerijos istorija yra gana įdomi ir verta dėmesio. Trumpa iškarpa. Dar 1968 metais prie senosios distilerijos išdygo gerokai didesnė distilerija (taip pat Clynelish). Su didesnėmis galimybėmis ir labiau orientuota į pagaminama kiekį. 1969 metais senoji (mažoji) distilerija buvo pervadinta į Brora ir pradėjo gaminti stipriai „pytintą” salyklą įvairiems maišytiems viskiams. 1973 metais buvo gerokai sumažintas įdurpinto salyklo naudojamas. Ir 1983 Brora buvo uždaryta. O šalia esanti didžioji kaimynė toliau tęsė savo darbą po Clynelish vardu. Nosis. Nors viskis nėra statinės stiprumo, bet kvapas pasitinka smagiai apveldamas nosį. Nematomis uostant nepasakyčiau, kad tai „tik” 46%. Tęsiam toliau. Šiltas vaškas, citrusų galerija, tamsus medus, šiltas meduolis, momentais atsiranda vaisių ir salyklo saldumas. Žoliškumas primena kažką apie Glen Moray ir Tullibardine viskius. Alijošius, bazilikas ir truputis levandų. Medžio taninai. Liepos žiedų arbata. Labai geras kvapas. Nesinori visiškai paleisti. Bendrai kvapas truputi primena demo versijos Longrow viskius, bet pridėjus keletą laipsnių manau parodytų kas yra kas. Skonis. Žoliškas kartumas ir vanilės natos pasitinka pirmos, nors nėra labai stipriai išreikštos. Toliau seka medus, korys, sviestiniai sausainiai, citrusai, menka užuomena į druską. Salyklas, vaisiai ir ąžuolas taip pat groja savo partiją. Skonis išduoda, kad viskio stiprumas sukasi apie 46 – 48%. Bet „mouth coating” čia taip pat galima rasti, nors jis nėra ryškus. Poskonis. Vidunio ilgumo. Su daugiau saldumo ir citrusų rūgštumo. Minerališkas. Mano trys centai. Iš tokio amžiaus Clynelish salyklo galbūt tikėjausi daugiau. Bet iš tiesų labai geriamas, kvapnus ir galbūt ne visiems skirtas viskis. 88 taškai.

Benrinnes 2001/2018, 46%, Gourmet Crème Brulee, Wemyss Malt, hogshead, 310 butelių, NCF/NCA/SC
Distilerija vis dar naudojanti „worm tub” įrengimą, kuris suteikia distiliatui svorio. Dar tokius prietaisus naudoja tokios distilerijos kaip Mortlach, Cragganmore, Craigellachie ir keletas kitų. Iki 2007 metų ši distilerija naudojo sudėtingą dalinį trigubos distiliacijos būdą. O šis viskis kaip tik iš tų laikų. Pažiūrim, ar sugebės atsilaikyti prieš Clynelish. Nosis. Ei, tai labai gerai. Saldi pradžia. Koks šviežumas, gaivumas ir grynumas! Tarsi kristalizuotas iki 99.01%… 😀 . Pasitinka nepilnai prinokę vaisiai kaip obuoliai, bananai, melionai, persikai, kriaušės ir galbūt abrikosai. Ir tai tikrai nėra blogai. Man labai patinka šita rūgštinė nosis ir ne kitaip. Rabarbarai ir geltonos slyvos. Rožių žiedlapiai ir prinokusių grūdų laukas. Momentais linų – sėmenų aliejus ir parafinas, tai galbūt „worm tub” nuopelnas? Skonis. Vėlgi pradžioje pasitinka vaisių saldumas. Malonus ir neperspaustas. Tada iškart išsiverčia grūdai, balta duona, citrinos, mielės ir apynių kartumas. Burnoje taip pat yra švarumo, grynumo jausmas. Problema, kad didelis žoliškumas, prieskoniškumas ir taninai truputi užgožia visą skonio gražumą. Sunku atskirti pelus nuo grūdų. Viskio skonis piktesnis, aštresnis ir kaitinantis labiau nei kvapas. Skonis niekaip neatsilaiko prieš kvapą. Poskonis. Ilgas. Prieskoningas, aršus, šildantis, su aitrių pipirų prieskoniu. Mano trys centai. Vien tik nosis verta 90 taškų, bet skonis tikrai ne. Uostyti, uostyti ir dar kartą uostyti. Kaip pasakė kažkas ką tik. 85 taškai.

Springbank 10YO, 2009/2019, 56.2%, Local Barley, burbono/chereso/port’o statinės, 9000 butelių, NCF/NCA/CS
Praeitą kartą, kai apžvelginėjau 9 metų lokalius miežius, aš išdrįsau jam duoti 91 tašką. Kai pagalvoji, tai apima baisuma. Bet…Taigi, šio viskio kompoziciją sudaro: 77% burbono statinės, 20% chereso ir 3% port’o vyno bačkos. Labai įdomu, dėl ko jie naudojo net 3 procentus port statinių? Musėt, dėl to, kad truputi atsiskirtų nuo prieš tai buvusio 10 metų leidimo su lokaliais miežiais. Bet ką aš žinau. Nosis. O! Taip! Ties tuo gal ir baigiam? Visgi, pabandysiu papasakoti. Sausa durpė, jodas, jūros vanduo, minerališkumas, tamsus medus, skrudintas medis, lakas, alyvuogių aliejus ir švieži odiniai batai. Taigi, o po burbono skraiste slypi cheresas ir port. Cinamonas, BBQ padažas (ne tas saldus), vanilinis cukrus, anyžius ir galbūt raudonos uogos. Apie nosies apnešimą net neina kalba, čia tiesiog ją užgula ir nepaleidžia. Skonis. Šerbetas, saldainiai, mangas, persikas, šiek tiek prisvilusi braškių uogienė, druska, juodieji pipirai ir rozmarinas. Čia taip pat randu, kad chereso ir port pusė nėra išnykusi. Skrudinti riešutai, žolelės, taninai ir šiek tiek tradicinių džiovintų vaisių. Būtų nuodėmė nepaminėti jodo, saldaus durpiškumo, sūraus vandens, juodosios arbatos ir citrinų. Poskonis. Ilgas ir aštrus (peilių prasme). Citrusai ir juodieji pipirai šioje vietoje ką tik pridėjo tašką. Mano trys centai. Pirkčiau butelį per daug negalvojęs ir tiek. Kai kurie pasakytų nuobodžiai puikus, o aš pasakyčiau, kad jie kitaip ir nemoka. 90 taškų.

Benrinnes šiandien šiek tiek pasimetė tarp tokios kompanijos, bet aš jį suprantu. Būtina labiau susipažinti su skysčiu, kurį pradėjo distiliuoti nuo 2007 metų Benrinnes distilerija.
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239 thoughts on “Apžvalga. Clynelish, Benrinnes ir Springbank”

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