Apžvalga. Royal Lochnagar, Aultmore ir Mortlach

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Sveiki gyvi. Nežinau kaip jus, bet mane vasara lepina. Dienos nėra karštos, o vakarai ir naktys vėsūs ir ramūs. Puikus derinys gerai įsijausti į viskį ir juo pasimėgauti. Ką ir tikiuosi šiandien sėkmingai padaryti. Ai, beje, JW išleido viskį popierinėje pakuotėje. Bet aš šiandien tikrai ne apie tai.

Royal Lochnagar 12YO, 40%, 2017, OB
Taigi, pradžiai kažką lengvo, kad pagerinti virškinimą. Žodžiu, aperityvas. Royal Lochnagar distilerija labai retai sutinkami abiejuose viskio frontuose. Paskutinį kartą būtent šį viskį ragavau 2013 – 2014 metais. Ir tiesa pasakius nieko neatsimenu. Gal ir gerai. Gaivinsim atmintį. Beje, tai mažiausia veikianti distilerija iš esamų DIAGEO portfelyje. Suprantu, tai nieko nesako. Nosis. Pirmas 5 minutes kvapas buvo pakankamai stiprus, nepatikėtum, kad tai 40%. Labai greitai sureagavo su oru ir pasiekė savo lygį. Panašu, kad potencialo turi, bet skiedimas čia viską sudėliojo į „vietas”. Salyklas, žali obuoliai, kriaušės, vanilinis cukrus, truputis citrusų, ąžuolo sausumas, galbūt truputi parfumuotas. Truputi gėliškas. Įdomiausia, kad ąžuolas labiausiai atsilaikė prieš skiedimą. Reikia būtinai 46% versijos. Skonis. Nykstantis greitai ir sklandžiai. Bet čia nėra taip liūdna, kaip pagalvotum. Juodoji arbata, skrudintas salyklas, avietės, ramunėlių arbata, ąžuolo sausumas ir žiupsnelis kartumo. Poskonis. Vidutinis, su šiek tiek prieskonių. Momentais išlenda avietės su juodąja arbata. Ne, aš šiandien jos negėriau, bet norėjau… Tiesa pasakius poskonis man labiausiai patiko. Mano trys centai. Už tą arbatą ir avietes duosiu tašką. Yra kažkokio potencialo, bet ką daugiau pasakyti? Už tą kaina manau rasit geresnių alternatyvų. 78 taškai

Aultmore 28YO, 1982/2011, 57.6%, Adelphi Selection, Refill Bourbon Cask, 179 buteliai, statinės nr. 2233, NCF/NCA/SC/CS
Nei daug, nei mažai, vėluoju 9 metus su šiuo viskiu. Bet geriau dabar, nei niekada. Aultmore viskiai yra išties įdomūs. Nereikia toli ieškoti, užtenka pažvelgti į distilerijos leidimus. 12 – 18 – 21 – 25 metų. Šiuo metu negaliu drąsiai teigti, kad 25 metų viskis išties geras. Tiesiog dar nepriėjau iki to. O jei nusileidžiant ant žemės, tai 12 metų viskioką siūlyčiau kaip alternatyvą tam, kuris yra viršuje. Bet čia tik mano nuomonė. Nosis. 57.6% ir 28 metai geras derinys. Pirmos minutės: rūstus, piktokas ir galingas. Bet tai tikrai ne problema. Dar pridėčiau tokių epitetų kaip švarus, gaivus, užgulantis. O detaliau? Plastmasė, šviežia oda, pipirai, galbūt truputis lako. Minerališkas, sausinantis ir žoliškas. Kepti obuoliai, marinuoti pomidorai, alijošius, rudens lapai, citrinų pyragas, vanilė, medžio anglis, kepti lazdyno riešutai. Lengvas ir tuo pačiu sunkus…jei tai gali egzistuoti. Jei norite lengvesnės nosies įsilašinkit keletą lašų vandens. Skonis. Niekuo nenusileidžia nosies patirtiems išbandymams. Tikras seilių išskyrėjas. Stiprus, galingas, aliejiškas ir labai prieskoningas. Čili pipiriukai, bazilikas ir rozmarinas. Truputi saldokas ir citrusiškai aitrus. Pieniškas šokoladas, riešutų sviestas, parafinas, sūri karamelė. Viskis kompaktiškas ir sunkus. Bet mums patinka sunkūs reikalai? Ar ne? Poskonis. Juodoji arbata, ąžuolo prieskoningumas ir mėsos prieskoniai. Vidutinis – ilgas. Mano trys centai. Mano supratimu, tai būtų išties puikus geros knygos palydovas. Visam vakarui pora dram’ų ir skaitosi, kaip iš pypkės. 88 taškai.
P. S. Beje, geras plaukikas.

Mortlach 30YO, 1989/2019, 48.5%, Hunter Laing, Old & Rare – The Platinum Selection, Oloroso Cask, 317 butelių, NCF/NCA/CS/SC
Ir seniausias viskis iš šios trijulės atkeliauja iš Mortlach. Distilerija, kuri turi išties išskirtinį kvapą ir skonį. Tik maža dalis fanų lieka abejinga šiems viskiams. Gali nekęsti, gali mylėti. Tiesa ta, kad tikrai pasitaiko gana silpnų leidimų iš abiejų frontų. Bet čia labiau kaltinčiau statinių kokybę, o ne patį distilerijos charakterį. Nosis. Taip, Mortlach. Mėsiškas, aromatingas ir pilnas. Beabejo, 30 metų branda nugludino žiauriausius distilerijos kampus, bet už tai davė komleksiškumą ir gylį. Aromatingas oloroso cheresas, mėsos žolelės, senas apdulkėjęs rūsys, sausas tabakas, ąžuolo taninai ir apelsinų likeris. Truputis sieros, kuri labai puikiai dera šitame kontekste. Momentais lenda švieži citrusai, skrudinti riešutai ir kepsnių padažas. Neapsieinama be džiovintų slyvų, razinų, vyšnių ir figų. Skonis. Kaip puikiai dera Mortlach ir sieros užuomenos. Jei daugiau būtų, tai manau iškiltų tam tikrų problemų. Taip ant ribos. Reiškias balansas yra. Skrudintas medis, muskato riešutas, imbieras, tabakas, fermentuoti vaisiai, salyklo saldumas, tamsus medus ir parafinas. Švelnus citrusų aitrumas. Sriracha padažas. Ąžuolo pakankamai daug, bet kiti chereso statinės suteikiami skoniai tai subalansuoja. Nors tai tikrai nėra sunku padaryti… ąžuolo skonis jau labiau toks velvetinis. Momentais šis viskis primena senus konjakus ar tai armanjakus. Stipriai sausinantis. Poskonis. Vis norisi čepsėti. Ilgas, labai ilgas. Juodoji arbata, kartusis šokoladas, džiovintos slyvos, figos ir truputis ąžuolo aitrumo. Mano trys centai. Mortlach standartais, tai sakyčiau civilizuotas ir gerai išauklėtas žolelinis chereso užpilas. Labai labai puikus Mortlach. Nusipelno kažko gero, gal devyneto su baronkos skyle? 90 taškų.

Po šito Mortlach, jau nebenorėčiau tęsti šio vakaro ragautuvių. Nesinori leistis žemiau. Neužmirškit ir Aultmore viskio. Puikiai tiks prie bet kokios stiprios knygos. Tad šiandien tiek ir iki kitų greitų susiragavimų. Likite sveiki ir stiprūs.

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