Apžvalga. Airija. I dalis

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Sveiki. Šiuose namuose dar nė karto nebuvo paskirta apžvalga ar apžvalgos tik Airijos viskiams. Tad kodėl ne šiandien? Daugelis iš jūsų tikrai žino, kad Airijos viskių scena plečiasi vos ne kas dieną. Beabejo, jaunoms distilerijoms pradžia visada būna gana sunki. Perkiesi viskius iš tokių kaip Midleton ar Bushmills ar dar iš kurios vyresnės Airijos distilerijos. Maišai (arba ne) su dar kokiais jaunais airiškais viskiais ir pateiki tai kaip „savo” produktą. Kažkiek primena „japoniškų” viskių sceną, bet čia esi 100% tikras, kad tai tikrai airiški ir ne kitaip. Arba darai, kaip Waterford distilerija. Išlauki tuos keletą metų ir paleidi savo produktą ir niekam nei ačiū.

Roe & Co, 45%, Blended Irish Whiskey, Burbono statinės, L0022NB001 54586, NCF
Bet prieš tai aperityvas? Jeigu jūs nieko prieš. Rašo, kad tai blended kategorija. Reiškias šiuo atveju: daug single grain, kažkiek single malt ir galbūt truputis single pot viskių. Kita vertus nefiltruotas ir 45% stiprumo. Labai gerai. Nosis. Kvapni, saldoka, salykliška, grūdiška ir truputį agresyvi. Kas dar? Cinamonas, vanilė, karamelė, citrusiniai kvepalai, kokoso drožlės, mėsos prieskoniai, lazdyno riešutai, ąžuolo dulkės, šviežia žolė ir fermentuoti tropiniai vaisiai. H2O. Gana jautrus ir trapus. Tad tik keli lašai. Vanduo iššaukia gėliškumą, didesnę vanilės dalį ir degintą medį. Skonis. Saldokas, grūdiškas, aitrokas, truputį kartokas. Skonio pradžia nuteikė gana smagiai, bet įpusėjus ir einant į pabaiga darėsi vis grubesnis. Sodo vaisių ir salyklo saldumas, citrusų aitrumas, tešla, vanilė, mėsos prieskoniai, juodas pipiras. H2O. Big Fat No. Krenta intensyvumas ir skoniai. O aitrumas ir kartumas vis dar čia. Poskonis. Trumpas, ąžuoliškas, saldokas, prieskoningas. Mano trys centai. Kažkada eidamas pas draugus pirkdavau Greenore 8YO. Smagus ir neįpareigojantis. Tada jis ilgam dingo. Tada atsirado Roe & Co. 79 taškai.

Waterford 2016/2020, 50%, Single Farm: Ballykilcavan 1.1, 8640 butelių, NCF/NCA, OB
Taberna miežiai užauginti David Walsh-Kemmis ūkininko. 45% amerikinio, 37% prancūziško, 18% VDN (Vin Doux Naturel) ir 0% naujo ąžuolo. Beje, ant galinės etiketės rasite kodą, kurį suvedus distilerijos svetainėje gausite masę informacijos. Nieko panašaus nesu matęs. Nosis. Kvapni, pilna ir grūdiška. Beabejo, viskis 3 metų, su keliais mėnesiais brandinimo. Tad miško uoga (distiliatas) jaučiasi aiškiai. Juoda duona, kmynai, šviežios bandelės, mielės, vaisių jogurtas, miltai ir kepti lazdyno riešutai. Laikui bėgant prisideda citrusai, bananai, sodo vaisiai, saulėgrąžų aliejus ir abrikosai. Manau jau supratot apie ką eina šneka. H2O. Aha, sėda distiliatas ir skleidžiasi didesnis vaisiškumas. Gėliškumas irgi nesnaudžia. Skonis. Aliejiškas, pilnas, truputį agresyvus, duoniškas ir vaisiškai saldokas. Miško uogos jausmas burnoje mažesnis, bet tikrai dar aptinkamas. Citrusų aitrumas, mentolis, juodas pipiras, bazilikas, arbatžolės, balta duona, šviežios bandelės su raudonų vaisių džemų, alyvuogės, rakija (kroatiška). Kažkokios užuominos apie sierą, bet nesu tikras. H2O. Daugiau medžio, saldumo, prieskonių. Labiau civilizuotas. Poskonis. Ilgas, šildantis ir sausinantis. Abrikosai. Uogiškai saldus, prieskoningas, ąžuoliškas. Mano trys centai. Gerai dirbantis su H2O ir ne kitaip. Pakankamai sudėtingas viskis su įvairiomis natomis ir su aiškiai išreikštu grūdiškumu. Neužmirštam, jam tik trys! Įdomu ką dar trys metai sugebėtų padaryti su šiuo viskiu? 83 taškai.

Waterford 2016/2020, 50%, Single Farm: Bannow Island 1.1, 8616 butelių, NCF/NCA, OB
Overture salykliniai miežiai ir atšiaurus Bannow pusiasalio klimatas. Ūkininkas Ed Harpur. Brandintas 3 metus ir 8 mėnesius. Fermentacija truko 136 valandas. 35% amerikinio (FF), 20% naujo amerikinio, 25% prancūziško ir 20% VDN ąžuolo bačkos. Nosis. Aha. Ir šioje kompozicijoje esantis naujas ąžuolas apie save aiškiai ir garsiai apsireiškia. Aitresnis, galingesnis, prieskoningesnis ir tiesmukiškesnis. Labai aromatingas. Kita vertus šioje padėtyje naujas ąžuolas gerai veikia maskuodamas distiliatą ir suteikdamas brandesnio viskio kvapą. Muskato riešutas, citrinos žievė, masala prieskoniai, mielinio pyrago padas, kreida, mėsos prieskoniai, druska, karamelė, šviežias medis ir sviestiniai sausainiai. O geriausia dalis, kad vis dar puikiai jaučiamas grūdiškumas. H2O. Su skysčiu beveik dingsta viskio jaunatviškumas. Pasirodo gėliškumas, vaisiai ir irisas. Skonis. Ta pati padėtis ir čia. Naujas ąžuolas gana gerai maskuoja viskio jaunystę. Bet tuo pačiu viskiui suteikia daugiau prieskoniškumo ir brandos. O toliau? Žoliškumas, aitri juoda duona, kepti kmynai, muskato riešutas, rozmarinas. Minerališkas ir truputį alkoholiškas. Momentais lenda kartumas. H2O. Minkštesnis, saldesnis, labiau civilizuotas, netgi tirštesnis.Poskonis. Vidutininio ilgumo. Grūdai, žoliškumas, duonos pluta ir minerališkumas. Mano trys centai. Kvapas kompleksiškesnis nei pirmojo, o skonis atvirkščiai. O, bet, tačiau vanduo padėjo subalansuoti skonį. Tad, 84 taškai. Beje, tie du, gana skirtingi viskiai.

Waterford 2016/2020, 50%, Single Farm: Sheestown 1.1, 9000 butelių, NCF/NCA, OB
Irina salykliniai miežiai. Mauri Distiller’s mielės. 35% amerikinio (FF), 21% naujo amerikinio, 25% prancūziško ir 19% VDN ąžuolo statinės. Labai panaši kompozicija į antrojo viskio. Kone identiška. 3 metų, 10 mėnesių ir 25 dienų branda. Nosis. Piktas, gaivus, jaunas, grūdiškas, pilnas ir tirštas. Primena įvairias arbatines žoleles. Sausinantis. Momentais atrodo, kad uostytum kokį puikų vermutą. Skrudintas medis, pieniški saldainiai, pelynas, molis, tropiniai vaisiai, žalias bananas, neapdirbta medvilnė, šienas ir malūnas. Momentais, toks „farmy”. H2O. Terpentinas, vaškas, medus. Švelnesnis ir ramesnis. Skonis. Miško uogos beveik nerasta. Truputį alkoholiškas ir minerališkas. Prieskoningas, aitrus ir kartokas. Charakteringas, tirštas ir apveliantis burną. Beabejo, labai daug asociacijų su grūdais. Labai žoliškas, gal labiau arbatiškas. Kriaušė, obuolys, vaisių pyragas ir uogiškas saldumas. H2O. Skystesnis, žoliškesnis ir panašu, kad vanduo išsikviečia daugiau ąžuolo. Poskonis. Vidutinio ilgumo. Grūdai, pelynų arbata, citrusai ir ąžuolas. Mano trys centai. Nesu tikras į kurią pusę pasiduoti. Vėl ta pati situacija…nosis labai įdomi, o skonis nepalaiko to ritmo. Žiūrint iš kitos pusės. Vėl skirtingas salyklinis viskis. 83 taškai.

Manau tai, ką jiems pavyko pasiekti per daugiau nei tris metus su šiais viskiais, yra tikrai geras darbas. Kaip ir daugelį jaunų viskių, kamuoja brandos problemos. Bet tai, ką šį distileriją daro, neturi precedento viskio pasaulyje, bent jau šiuo metu. Beabejo, laukia dar ilgas kelias į Olimpą.
Kas įdomiausia, kad statinių kompozicijos yra gana panašios, ypač tarp antrojo ir trečiojo viskių. Negaliu nei pilnai paneigti, nei pilnai patvirtinti apie šiuose viskiuose esantį „Terroir”. Bet manau faktas tas, kad viskiai skirtingi, o brandinimo statinės su nežymiais skirtumais. Tad linkčiau link distilerijos išsakomos nuomonės. Žiūrint iš antros medalio pusės, kaip statinės paveiks šiuos išskirtinius salyklus per ilgus brandinimo metus? Manau, tai ir bus tikrasis iššūkis.
Ir kaip visada, laukiu nesulaukiu gerokai brandesnių refill-refill statinėse brandintų Waterford salyklinių viskių. Iki kitų susiragavimų. Likite sveiki ir stiprūs.

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