Apžvalga. Agavos distiliatai. II dalis

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Sveiki gyvi. Šiandien ir toliau tęsiam temą apie agavų distiliatus. Kaip žinia, iš agavos daromi skirtingi alkoholiniai gėrimai. Beabejo, labiausiai yra žinoma tekila. Bet šiandien ją palikime ramybėje ir patyrinėkime, manau, kur kas įdomesnį agavos produktą – mezkalį. Kas iš tiesų šį gėrimą padaro išties įdomiu ir skirtingu? Naudojamos labai įvairios agavų rūšys, skirtingi agavų brandos amžiai, laukinės ir kultūrinės agavos, skirtingos augimo vietos, mezcalero (asmuo, kuris rūpinasi, koks būtent bus mezkalis) ir dar daugybė mažų, bet labai svarbių, niuansų. Ir dar vienas mano supratimu svarbus dalykas – mezkaliai beveik niekada nėra brandinami naudojant kokias nors medžio statines. Kas iš tiesų padeda atsiskleisti agavai ir mezcalero požiūriui. Beabejo, yra išimčių, bet tai labiau eksperimentai, o ne kažkokia taisyklė ar būtinybė. Ką gi, svarbiausia yra praktika!

La Medida „Madrecuishe”, 46.6%, OB, mezkalis
Ši agava gali būti auginama ūkiuose arba randama laukinėje gamtoje. Šiam mezkaliui buvo parinkta tik ūkyje auginta Madrecuishe agava. Paprastai ši agava būna naudojama kaip gyvatvorė kažkam pridengti. Galinti augti iki 1500 metrų virš jūros lygio. Nosis. Iškart pasitinka vidutinio stiprumo dūmas, nors jis pačiame kvape gana dominuojantis, bet labai malonus ir smagiai plaukiantis per nosį. Paskui seka daržoviškumas, lengvas minerališkumas ir truputis gėliškumo spraudžiasi į dienos šviesą. Išties labai smagi nosis. Kas dar? Truputis čili pipiro, mėtos, „Moment” klijų ir kažkokio saldumo. Skonis. Auč, labai nemažas sausumas, su lengvu salstelėjimu. Po šio pasirodymo kerta aštrūs prieskoniai: juodasis pipiras, tarkuoti krienai, čili pipirai. Kai aštrumas aprimsta išlenda sūdyti žemės riešutai, mėsos prieskoniai, citrusai, rūkytos daržovės. Iš tiesų kompleksiškas skonis, kuris kaip sniego gniūžtė nuo kalno. Poskonis. Ilgas, sausas, labai šildantis, su saldžiu dūmeliu ir aitriais pipirais. Mano trys centai. Kvapas savo vietoje, kaip ir ne stebuklas, bet skonis išties padėjo šiam mezkaliui labiau iškilti. Labai labai skanus mezkalis. Norėtųsi, kad ir nosis pasiūlytų kažką tokio. O bendrai paėmus…pirkčiau butelį.

La Medida „Bicuishe”, 47%, OB, mezkalis
Kitas mezkalis, kita agava. Šįkart, naudota visiškai laukinė agava, kuri augo džiunglių aplinkoje. Augimo vieta randasi 1700 metrų virš jūros lygio. Agavos buvo 9 – 10 metų brandos, nors ši rūšis didžiausią brandą pasiekia ties 15 metais. Ši agava naudojama labai retai mezkaliui gaminti, bet kodėl ne. Nosis. Tik įsipylus pasitinka saldūs kvapai, kaip vanilinis cukrus, karamelė, sviestiniai sausainiai. Po 10 – 15 minučių šie kvapai beveik nunyksta ir darosi kažkiek panaši į pirmąjį mezkalį. Kvape randu mažiau dūmo, nei pirmoje, bet daugiau žalumo. Švieži agurkai, žali pipirai ir gal netgi neprinokęs melionas. Pats kvapas truputi švelnesnis ir ramesnis. Dar pridėčiau: kmynus, druską, gumą ir medžio anglį. Labai išauklėtas kvapas. Niekas neišsišoka, o kvapai atsiskleidžia po truputį ir su laiku jų tik daugėja. Skonis. Labai panaši į Madrecuishe mezkalį, bet čia pasigedau didesnės skonių išraiškos. Viskas labai susipynę, kaip koks mezginių kamuolys. Čia taip pat randu mažiau dūmelio, bet jis yra. Išskirčiau sodo vaisių saldumą, lengvą sausumą ir baziliką. Poskonis. Vidutinis ilgumo. Žalias ir pipiriškas. Mano trys centai. Turbūt pateko ne pats geriausias „bečas” iš šios agavos. Tad rinkitės atsakingai.

La Medida „Arroqueno”, 47.5%, OB, mezkalis
Arroqueno mezkalis gamintas iš agavos, kuri buvo auginta ūkyje. Šie ūkiai yra 1600 metrų virš jūros lygio. Paprastai ši rūšis yra visiškai laukinė. Šios agavos (ypač laukinės) mezkaliai yra reti, o ateityje gali būti, kad beveik visai išnyks. Kadangi, ši agava savo brandą pasiekia 20 savo gyvenimo metais. Nosis. Prasideda su saldžiais ir keptais kvapais. Cinamonas, saldi karamelė, vanilės ankštis, anyžius ir daug citrusų. Šie kvapai greitai sėda, bet čia ne bėda. Tuoj išgirsit. Žalios alyvuogės, mentolis, medis, lauro lapai, šviežiai pjauta žolė ir tropiniai vaisiai. Prie orkestro dar prisijungia pipirai ir garstyčios. Pats kvapas labai solidus, apveliantis ir labai kvapnus. Bijau ragauti, bet reikia 😀 Skonis. Aha, skonis vėlgi galingas, tirštas, apveliantis burną. Kmynai, alyvuogės, mentolis, sodo vaisių saldumas, muskato riešutas, bazilikas, baltas pipiras. Momentais lenda vanilė, krienai, juoda duona ir įvairios žalios daržovės. Poskonis. Nepasakyčiau, kad labai ilgas, labiau linkstantis į švelnumą ir subtilumą. Mano trys centai. Mano supratimu išties nuostabus mezkalis. Nosis tiesiog puiki ir kompleksiška, skonis neatsiliekia. Kas įdomiausia (man), kad šis mezkalis gali pasiūlyti plačią skonių ir kvapų paletę. Čia jau vienu buteliu nereiktų apsiriboti. Reikia imti dėžę. Aš rimtai!

La Medida „Tepeztate” 47.8%, OB, mezkalis
Dar viena skirtinga agava. Šios skirtingos agavos išties duoda suprasti, kad mezkalis gali būti kaip chameleonas. Čia naudotos laukinėje džiunglių aplinkoje augusios agavos. Brandą jos pasiekė apie 25 metus. Augo 1700 metrų virš jūros lygio. Dar viena agavos rūšis, kuriai reikia didžiulio dėmesio, kad ateityje fanai galėtų mėgautis šios rūšies mezkaliu. Nosis. Vau, kokia gaivi, gyva ir žalia nosis. Česnakų lapai, krienų lapai, krapai, jalapeno pipirai, medžio lapai. Gana tu lapų, kiek galima! Tiesiog labai žalia nosis. O kas toliau? Iš tiesų po gerų 15 minučių šis žalumas pasitraukia į antrąjį planą. Atsiranda truputis citrusų, dūmo, druskytės, mėsos prieskonių, gal netgi sūdyti popkornai kiša ausis. Išties kvapni ir pilna nosis. Skonis. Aha, sviestiniai sūdyti popkornai, juodasis pipiras, didelis sausumas, nors išnyksta gana greitai. Išties nemažai charakterio, kaip ir daržoviškumo. Kažkiek primena arbatžolių arbatas. Truputis tropinių vaisių saldumo. Užuominos į šviežius grūdus? Labai pilnas, tirštas ir sausas skonis. Nerandu dėl ko aš turėčiau prisikabinti. Poskonis. Velvetiškas, ilgas, ramus, kažkiek kartokas užbaigimas. Mano trys centai. Sėdžiu ir galvoje nerandu priežasčių kodėl aš to negalėčiau jums rekomenduoti. Teisingai, žinau, gal tiesiog visai nemėgstate mezkaliu? Bet aš manau, kad jums reikia pergalvoti šitą jūsų pasirinkimą, kad ir dabar.

Xiaman Mezcal Artesanal, 44%, laukinė Tepextate/Espadin, OB, mezkalis
Taigi, pirmasis agavų „blendas”. Šiuo atveju 50% laukinė Tepextate ir 50% Espadin agava. Per partiją pagaminama ne daugiau kaip 500 butelių. Agavų pinjos keptos požeminėse orkaitėse, fermentacija vyko su laukinėmis mielėmis, dviguba distiliacija variniuose „potuose”. Ant popieriaus gražiai gražu. Nosis. Kvapas lengvas, neįpareigojantis, prispaustas, neišraiškingas. Kas dar? Vanilės ankštis, gėliškumas, klijai, lakas, lengvai vilnijantis dūmelis, alijošiaus lapai, kažkoks saldus kepinys. Iš tiesų kvapai slypi kažkur anapus. Laikui bėgant kvapus užvaldo tas vilnijantis dūmas. Vienpusis ir nuobodokas. Skonis. Didžiąją skonio dalį užėmęs dūmas, nors pats dūmas nėra aršus. Pats skonis vėlgi prispaustas, pritildytas. Skonio akimirkos su citrusais, druska ir rūgščiais vaisiais. Kas patiko, kad labai lengvai geriama. Neįpareigojančiai geriama. Poskonis. Trumpas, su minimaliu dūmu. Mano trys centai. Manau nėra taip blogai, nors vis tiek liūdna. Duočiau ragauti žmogui, kuris dar tik bando prisijaukinti mezkalius. Kokteiliai irgi būtų, sakykime, pavykę. Nors kainą reiktų braukti mažiausiai per pusę.

Cosmicos Mezcal Artesanal, 49%, Espadin, OB, mezkalis
Gamintas iš pačios populiariausios mezkalio agavos Espadin. Tiesą pasakius, Cosmicos gamintojas man visiškai nežinomas. Kas dar? Agavų pinjos keptos požeminėse orkaitėse, distiliuotas du kartus variniuose „potuose”. Ant popieriaus nieko labai išskirtinio, bet dažnai maži ir sunkiai pastebimi niuansai nulemia produkto išskirtinumą. Važiuojam! Nosis. Labai įdomu, iš tiesų. Pats kvapas gaivus, ryškus, tirštas, visiškai skaidrus, bet tikrai nėra neutralus, anaiptol. Citrinų pyragas, žolelių arbata, anyžius, muskatas ir tamsi karamelė. Momentais medienos nata. Ir tai tikrai nėra viskas. Labai ryškios džiovintų vaisių natos, kaip slyvų, abrikosų, razinų, gal netgi figų. Jei nežinočiau, tai sakyčiau, kad šis mezkalis yra matęs oloroso ar PX chereso statines. O taip tikrai nėra ir tai dar labiau sustiprina įspūdį. Skonis. Daug charakterio. Daug skonio. Pats skonis veliasi burnoje ir yra lengvai saldus. Daug panašumu į nosyje sutiktus kvapus. Tamsi karamelė, greipfrutai, vanilė, sodo vaisiai, mėsos prieskoniai. Smagiai sausinantis burną. Pats skonis švarus, gyvas, su gera alkoholio integracija. Yra ir džiovintų vaisių, bet čia jie nėra tokie ryškus. Puikiai išbaigtas skonis. Poskonis. Vidutinio ilgumo, bet labai malonus ir ryškus. Citrusų kartumas, kakavos sausumas ir žolelės. Mano trys centai. Nežinau ką jie darė, bet čia tikrai neapsieita be mažų niuansų. Įtarčiau, tai fermentacijos ir mielių maži stebuklai. Man tai išskirtinis mezkalis ir ne kitaip. Jeigu ir kitų agavų leidimai tokie patys, tai aš visiškai suintriguotas šiuo gamintoju.

Ką norėčiau dar pridėti. La Medida yra kaip Cadenheads viskio pasaulyje. Jie turi gerokai virš 400 gamintojų iš kurių perkasi mezkalius ir tada patiekia mums. Panašu, kad perkant jų produktus labai retai kada suklysi. Iš tiesų žino ką perka ir ką patiekia mūsų teismui.
Xiaman mezkalis asmeniškai nuvylė, bet pradedančiajam manau tai būtų gana neblogas intro į mezkalių pasaulį.
Cosmicos visiškai nuoširdžiai nustebino. Įdomu, kaip kitų agavų leidimai laikosi? Reikia dar įsipilti.
Perbėgom per 6 mezkalius ir tiesą pasakius vakaras buvo praleistas visiškai ne veltui. Šiandien tiek. Iki kitų susiragavimų. Likite sveiki ir stiprūs.
P. S. Bus trečia dalis.

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